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| Wine and Chocolate Main | ||
| Chocolate Coconut Napoleons | ||
| Earl Grey Chocolate Tart | ||
| Almond Chocolate Cake | ||
Star pastry chef and chocolate maven Jacques Torres created half a dozen desserts for Wine Spectator editors to match with a wide range of dessert wines. The three for which recipes follow emerged as favorites -- both for their own flavors and because they went exceptionally well with certain wines.
Chocolate is delicious even when nibbled right out of the package. But making fancy chocolate desserts requires dexterity, patience and concentration. These recipes require a fine touch with mixing cake batters and spreading tuiles on baking sheets. But if you follow the instructions carefully, the results will be well worth the trouble -- especially when the desserts are served with the wines that our tasting revealed as the best complements.
Almond Chocolate Cake is the simplest of these desserts, centering on a very rich chocolate cake recipe, but in this case made with almond flour for added flavor. A dense ganache spread over the surface works as an icing. Torres serves the cake with little garnish, all the better to savor the chocolate-on-chocolate character. In our tastings, the Emilio Lustau Sherry East India Solera NV was the best partner for this dish.
Chocolate Coconut Napoleons require a good deal of advance preparation. The various elements of the dessert can be made hours or even a day ahead of serving, including the baking of a dozen tuiles. The coconut tuiles divide layers of chocolate cream in the finished dessert, which is served with spoonfuls of crème anglaise and chocolate sauce. Capezzana Vin Santo del Carmignano Riserva 1996, with its tangy acidity and orange peel note, makes a thrilling match with this dessert.
Earl Grey Tea Chocolate Tart adds the haunting flavor of the bergamot-laced tea to a silky-smooth, dark, gooey chocolate filling. The secret is to steep the tea leaves in some of the cream to be used in the tart filling. Only the tart shell is baked. The filling firms up as it cools in the shell. Torres garnishes the tart with gold leaf, an omissible fillip. Sandeman Tawny Port 20 Year Old has the acidity to balance the chocolate and play off the ber-
gamot flavors perfectly.
Chocolate Coconut Napoleons
Chocolate Cream
Crème Anglaise
Chocolate Sauce
Coconut Tuiles
To make the chocolate cream, start early in the day or preferably the day before serving. Bring the milk, cream and 1 1/2 tablespoons sugar to a simmer in a heavy-bottomed medium saucepan over medium heat, then remove the pan from the heat.
Whisk the egg yolks and 1 1/2 tablespoons sugar in a medium bowl until thick and pale yellow. Gradually whisk half of the hot cream into the yolks, then whisk the yolk mixture back into the saucepan. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly with a rubber spatula, just until the custard reaches 182 degrees F on an instant-read thermometer and coats the spatula, about 3 minutes. (When you run your finger through the custard on the spatula, the streak will remain intact.) Strain through a wire sieve into a medium bowl. Measure 1/2 cup of the custard into a small bowl and reserve for the crème anglaise.
Add the chopped chocolate and 2 tablespoons of Grand Marnier to the larger amount of hot custard and whisk until melted. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate until thick and chilled, at least 4 hours or overnight.
To make the crème anglaise, stir the sugar, Grand Marnier, and vanilla into the reserved custard. Cool, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until chilled, at least 4 hours or overnight.
To make the chocolate sauce, bring the cream to a simmer in a small saucepan over medium heat. Remove from the heat, add the chocolate, and whisk until smooth. Pour into a small bowl and reserve at room temperature. If the sauce thickens, reheat on low just until warm and fluid.
To make the tuiles, position racks in the center and top third of the oven and preheat to 375 degrees F. Line two 17-by-12-inch (half-sheet) baking sheets with nonstick baking liners. (If you don't have nonstick liners, use traditional nonstick baking sheets, but you will have to bake the cookies in batches.)
Whisk the coconut, sugar, eggs and melted butter until thoroughly combined. Using about 1 tablespoon of the batter for each cookie, spread the batter into 12 very thin 4-inch rounds.
Bake, rotating the positions of the baking sheets from top to bottom and front to back halfway through baking, until the cookies are almost evenly browned, about 12 minutes. Let the tuiles cool on the baking sheets for 1 minute, then use a large metal spatula to transfer to a wire cake-rack. Cool completely.
For each napoleon, place a tuile on a dinner plate, and place a large dollop (about 2 tablespoons) of the chocolate cream in the center. Repeat with a second tuile and another dollop of chocolate cream, and top with a third tuile. Drizzle the crème anglaise and chocolate sauce around each napoleon. Serve immediately. Serves 4.
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