Côte-Rotie: Dining

Per-Henrik Mansson
Posted: April 26, 2001
 
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Côte-Rotie Restaurants

By Per-Henrik Mansson


La Pyramide

The airy, high-ceilinged dining room is luxurious yet relaxed, with warm red carpeting and thick gold drapes gracing the French doors that lead to the garden. In the summer, meals are served on a terrace shaded by large plane trees. The restaurant and the 25-room hotel above it are buffered from street noise by high walls and surrounding buildings.

The 450-selection, Wine Spectator Best of Award of Excellence-winning wine list is strong in Northern Rhône appellations such as Côte-Rôtie and Hermitage. Gems include the 1990 JeanLouis Chave Hermitageelegant, earthy and packed with blackberries ($94 for a halfbottle). Chef Point walled in much of his wine cellar during World War II to protect it from the occupying German troops. As a result, La Pyramide has a rare collection of old wines, spirits and Chartreuse, some originating in the early 19th century.

14 Boulevard Fernand Point, 38200 Vienne
Telephone (011) 33-4-74-53-01-96
Fax (011) 33474856973
Open Thursday to Monday, March to January
Cost Very Expensive


Auberge et Clos des Cimes

Chef/owner Régis Marcon says he is dedicated to central France's traditional cuisine. Except that he adds twists and turns as he works with fresh herbs and truffles, or serves salmon with a walnut oil sorbet as an appetizer. This Michelin twostar restaurant also provides gorgeous lodging on the premises-12 rooms with large windows overlooking a pristine countryside of peaks and valleys.

43290 Saint-Bonnet-leFroid
Telephone (011) 33-4-71-59-93-72
Fax (011) 33-4-71-59-93-40
Open Call for seasonal hours
Cost Expensive


La Réclusière

Martin Fleischmann, 35, has apprenticed in several three-star Michelin restaurantsand it shows in the great meals he's serving at this restored manor house set in a park. Their fairly new method of ultraslow cooking in vacuumsealed packets yields exceptionally succulent meat and poultry. Fleischmann has strong roots in classic cuisine, but his Alsatian heritage shows up in his food too.

Route Nationale 14, 69420 Condrieu
Telephone (011) 33-4-74-56-67-27
Fax (011) 33-4-74-56-80-05
Open Lunch and dinner, Wednesday to Sunday; lunch, Monday; closed two weeks in February
Cost Moderate


Restaurant Schaeffer

Chef Bernard Mathé executes classic dishes perfectly. There are black truffle and foie gras in puff pastry, many game dishes (Mathé is a hunter) and a rich entrée of lemony lobster and foie gras. A well-chosen wine list and an attentive sommelier reveal the chef's passion for wine.

Route Nationale 86, 07340 Serrières
Telephone (011) 33-4-75-34-00-07
Fax (011) 33-4-75-34-08-79
Open Lunch and dinner, Tuesday to Saturday; lunch, Sunday; call for seasonal hours 
Cost Moderate


Bistrot à Vin de Serine

This simple wine bar offers great value, and is an ideal place to stop after tasting in cold cellars. Servings of braised meats and creamy potato gratins are generous. There's good wine by the glass, and bottles are available from a retail shop downstairs.

16 Boulevard des Allées, 69420 Ampuis
Telephone (011) 33-4-74-56-15-19
Open Lunch and dinner, Tuesday to Saturday
Cost Inexpensive


For the complete article, please see the May 15, 2001, issue of Wine Spectator magazine, page 55. (Subscribe today)

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