Note: This recipe, from Chef Jeff Fitzgerald, Dio Deka, Los Gatos, Calif., originally appeared in the March 31, 2014 issue of Wine Spectator, "The Lady of Mouton."
• 2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes
• 5 tablespoons high quality Greek olive oil, plus 1/2 cup
• 4 tablespoons lemon juice, divided
• 1 tablespoon dried Greek oregano
• 2 whole dorade, each weighing about 1 1/2 pounds, cleaned and scales removed
• 6 slices lemon
• 4 sprigs thyme
• 4 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano
• 2 tablespoons lemon zest
1. Halve or quarter the potatoes into 1- to 2-inch wedges. Cover them with cold, heavily salted water. Bring the water and the potatoes to a boil and cook until they are tender, about 7 minutes. Allow the potatoes to cool. (This can be done up to 2 days ahead of time).
2. Preheat the oven to 400° F. Toss the potatoes with 5 tablespoons olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Roast the potatoes for about 15 minutes, until they are browned and crispy.
3. While potatoes cook, whisk remaining olive oil and 3 tablespoons lemon juice together with a pinch each of salt and dried oregano. Set aside.
4. Rinse the fish under cold water and pat dry. With a sharp knife, make an incision into one side of the fish, starting at the gill plate and finishing at the tail. (This cut should reach the fish's spine but not go through.) Place 3 lemon slices, 2 sprigs thyme and a large pinch each of both salt and dried oregano inside the cavity of the fish. Rub the fish with the lemon and olive oil mixture (using too much will make it flame up during cooking and scorch the fish).
5. Heat a charcoal or gas grill to high on one side of the grill so that one side of the grill is very hot, and the other is open for indirect heat. Lay the fish on the hot side, cut side down, and cook for about 5 minutes. During this time, it is extremely important not to move the fish, as it will stick.
6. After the first side has browned, flip the fish using tongs, grabbing it by the head, and transfer it over to the cooler side of the grill. Grill for another 10 minutes until fully cooked through. To check the doneness, use tongs to push the flesh away from the bone in the incision. If it pushes away easily, the fish is done.
7. Remove the potatoes from the oven and toss with remaining lemon juice, fresh oregano and lemon zest. Serve immediately. Serves 4.