On Sunday, June 16, cook an elegant Father's Day meal for the dad in your life using this easy-to-follow recipe from chef Anthony Bucco of the newly revived Ryland Inn. The restaurant, a one-time Wine Spectator Grand Award winner, sat heartbreakingly empty for four years after a pipe burst in the building in 2007, destroying the restaurant's interior. Now, under the new ownership of Frank and Jeanne Cretella, the restaurant is rebuilding its wine program and once again serving sophisticated cuisine with a locavore sensibility.
Bucco, himself the father of three boys, has shared this recipe, in which the sweetness of sea scallops and fresh peas is tempered by the piquant earthiness of sautéed mushrooms dressed in lemon juice. With it, serve a Riesling or other aromatic white, with ripe fruit flavors echoing the seafood's sweetness and bright acidity providing balance and contrast. Below, we have provided notes, scores and prices for 13 recently rated selections.
Seared Scallops with English Pea Puree and Forest Mushrooms
Recipe courtesy of chef Anthony Bucco of the Ryland Inn, Whitehouse Station, N.J.
For the pea puree:
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 large leek, white part only, rinsed and finely diced
• 1 pint English peas, shelled
• 2 ounces mint leaves
• Salt to taste
1. Heat the oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add the leeks and cook until soft and nearly translucent, then remove from heat and allow to cool.
2. While the leeks cool, bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Set up an ice bath nearby. Blanch the peas in the boiling water until tender, about 1 minute. Remove the peas with a slotted spoon or strainer and immediately transfer to the ice bath. Blanch the mint leaves in the boiling water for about 20 seconds, then remove and transfer to the ice bath. Remove the peas and mint from the ice bath, drain and pat dry.
Chef Anthony Bucco, seen here in the Ryland Inn kitchen, prefers Barnegat Light scallops for this dish.
3. In the pitcher of a blender or bowl of a food processor fitted with the blade attachment, combine the peas, mint and leeks. Puree them together, adding a few splashes of the ice water as necessary to loosen the mixture, which should be thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Season the mixture with salt as desired. Pass through a fine-mesh strainer into a clean bowl or squirt bottle and refrigerate until ready to serve.
For the mushrooms:
• 2 tablespoons vegetable or canola oil
• 1 shallot, peeled and very finely chopped
• 1 pound assorted mushrooms (cremini, button, porcini, shiitake, oyster, lobster, morel), finely diced
• Juice of 1 lemon
• Salt and pepper to taste
Heat a dry sauté pan over medium heat for 2 minutes, then carefully add the oil and shallots to the pan. Cook gently over medium-low heat, until the shallots have sweated out their liquid, then add the mushrooms. Cook mushrooms for about 8 minutes, or until tender. Season to taste with salt, pepper and lemon juice.
For the scallops:
• 1 pound day boat scallops, adductor muscle removed
• 1 tablespoon sea salt
• 2 tablespoons vegetable or canola oil
• Pea puree (recipe above)
• Mushrooms (recipe above)
• 2 ounces pea tendrils, for garnish
1. Season each scallop with sea salt. Heat the oil in a sauté pan over medium-high heat. Carefully add the scallops and sear on one side for 3 minutes, or until golden brown. Turn the scallops with tongs or a spatula. Remove the pan from the heat, let sit for one more minute, then remove the scallops from the pan and reserve.
2. Using a ladle or squeeze bottle, make a pool of pea puree in the center of each of four dinner plates. Add an equal number of scallops to the center of each plate. Top with the mushrooms and garnish with the pea tendrils. Serves 4.
RECOMMENDED AROMATIC WHITES
Note: The following list is a selection of outstanding and very good wines from recently rated releases. More wines can be found in our Wine Ratings Search.
LOOSEN BROS. Gewürztraminer Alsace Herrenweg 2010 Score: 93 | $31
Vibrant and beautifully balanced, with a richness that belies an overall elegance, this offers floral and spice hints, delivering flavors of ripe apricot, papaya, candied kumquat, honey and lychee. Mouthwatering, with a tangy hint of sea salt-tinged mineral on the finish. Drink now through 2025. 4,200 cases made.—A.N.
BARMÈS BUECHER Riesling Alsace Tradition 2010 Score: 91 | $26
Silky in texture, offering rich notes of ripe apple, honey and almond balanced by a spine of pure acidity. The pronounced mineral undertow lingers on the finish alongside hints of fleur de sel and lemon zest. Drink now through 2023. 3,660 cases made.—A.N.
ROBERT EYMAEL (MÖNCHHOF) Riesling QbA Mosel 2011 Score: 90 | $17
Fresh and racy, this features firm minerality and flavors of ripe apricot, baked pear and guava. Lush midpalate, finishing with notes of clove and hints of basil. Expressive. Drink now through 2018. 15,000 cases imported.—K.M.
FORSTREITER Grüner Veltliner Qualitätswein Trocken Kremstal Kremser Kögl 2011 Score: 90 | $14
This delicate white offers interesting notes of dried herbs that join the fresh-cut apple and green peach flavors in this snappy style. The well-sculpted finish of mineral and white pepper lingers with hints of orange peel. Drink now through 2019. Tasted twice, with consistent notes. 6,000 cases made.—K.M.
MARKUS MOLITOR Riesling QbA Mosel Haus Klosterberg 2011 Score: 90 | $18
Stylish and rich-tasting, with a smoky note running through the ripe apple, apricot and white peach flavors. Creamy and plush on the finish, featuring hints of golden raisin. Drink now through 2015. 5,000 cases made.—K.M.
DOMÄNE WACHAU Riesling Federspiel Trocken Wachau Terrassen 2011 Score: 90 | $13
A plush, creamy style, with tropical fruit flavors of ripe pineapple and mango complemented by notes of peach cobbler and pear tart. Features a long, rich and spice-filled finish. Drink now through 2019. 9,000 cases made.—K.M.
RUDI WIEST Riesling QbA Mosel 2011 Score: 90 | $10
Reveals a mineral-infused aroma, with fine balance to the pineapple, guava and ripe nectarine flavors that linger with notes of honey and spice. The plush finish is creamy and rich. Drink now through 2018. 5,000 cases imported.—K.M.
LOOSEN BROS. Riesling QbA Mosel Dr. L 2011 Score: 89 | $12
Shows touches of richness to the wild berry, currant and cherry flavors. The plush finish is filled with plenty of mineral and spice, with creamy notes. Drink now through 2016. 100,000 cases imported.—K.M.
PACIFIC RIM Gewürztraminer Columbia Valley 2011 Score: 89 | $11
Light and spicy, redolent of rose petal, cinnamon and lychee, with the flavors balanced against a soft, off-dry structure. Drink now. 5,000 cases made.—H.S.
DOMÄNE WACHAU Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Trocken Wachau Terrassen 2011 Score: 89 | $15
There's a smoky edge to the ripe, lush flavors of pear, white plum and ruby grapefruit in this full-bodied white, with plenty of juicy minerality on the rich, spicy finish, featuring notes of white pepper. Drink now through 2017. 17,000 cases made.—K.M.
HERMANN J. WIEMER Riesling Finger Lakes Dry 2011 Score: 89 | $18
Fresh and engaging, with apple, pine, fennel and green melon notes leading to a crunchy, lively edge on the finish. Drink now through 2014. 4,800 cases made.—J.M.
CHATEAU STE. MICHELLE Gewürztraminer Columbia Valley 2011 Score: 88 | $9
Fresh and soft, this brims with spicy pineapple and floral flavors, finishing with mild sweetness. Drink now. 65,000 cases made. —H.S.
CHATEAU STE. MICHELLE-DR. LOOSEN Riesling QbA Pfalz Saint M 2011 Score: 88 | $12
Fresh and juicy, with delicate floral notes to the white plum and berry flavors. A dried apricot hint lingers on the spicy finish. Drink now. 36,960 cases imported.—K.M.