Rosé and Fried Oysters for the Fourth of July
A Boston chef shares his recipe for sliders, and we suggest 14 rosés for your summer entertaining
Boston is a city inextricably linked with the founding of the United States, and a great source of inspiration when making plans for the upcoming Independence Day holiday, when the warm weather calls for easy, flavor-packed dishes and easy-drinking wines. Jeremy Sewall of Boston's Island Creek Oyster Bar has shared his recipe for crisp oyster sliders with pickled onions and lime aioli. It's a salty, bright and tangy bite that's just right to pair with a chilled rosé.
An alum of the kitchens at Lark Creek Inn in Larkspur, Calif., and Kennebunkport, Maine's White Barn Inn and Boston's Great Bay, Sewall knows his way around seafood. He quickly dispenses with the myth that months without an "r" in their names are off-limits for oysters.
"That was good advice back when the water would get warm, in the months of June, July and August. The oysters would spawn, and they'd be milky, without a lot of flavor," said Sewall. “But the aquaculture and technology and science is such that oyster farmers can control the water temperature and grow a great product 12 months a year."
Sewall's own July 4th plans are solidly traditional, revolving around outdoor eating, chilled wine and as many family members as he can gather. At one such holiday, a few years ago, he found himself performing a wine conversion on a relative who was in a white Zinfandel rut. "I kept pouring her rosé, and I told her it was white Zinfandel, until the end of the weekend when I told her the truth. Now she loves it!"
Island Creek Oyster Sliders with Lime Aioli, Pickled Onion and Baby Arugula
For the oysters:
• 12 Island Creek oysters (or any good oyster), large in size
• 1/2 cup all-purpose flour
• 2 eggs, lightly beaten
• 1/2 cup bread crumbs
• 2 cups canola oil
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 12 small brioche or similar rolls, sliced
• 2 tablespoons soft butter
• Lime aioli (recipe below)
• Pickled onions (recipe below)
• 1/4 cup baby arugula or similar green
1. Shuck the oysters, taking care to keep them intact. Dredge each oyster in flour, shaking off any excess, then egg and then bread crumbs. Keep breaded oysters cold until ready to use.
2. In a small saucepan, heat the canola oil to 325° F. Fry each breaded oyster in the oil until golden brown on both side. Use a slotted spoon or tongs to transfer the oysters from the pan to a paper towel. Season the hot oysters with salt and pepper.
3. Toast the rolls in a toaster or the oven, and spread half of each roll with a small amount of the butter. Spread the other half of each roll with aioli. Add a pinch of pickled onion and baby greens, then top with the warm oyster. Divide the sandwiches equally among four plates, three sandwiches per plate. Serves 4.
For the pickled onions:
• 1 red onion, sliced thin
• 1/4 cup white wine vinegar
• 1/4 cup sugar
In a non-reactive bowl (use glass or plastic), combine the onion, sugar and vinegar. Let sit at room temperature for about two hours. Drain the onions, discarding the liquid, and refrigerate until ready to use.
For the lime aioli:
• 2 egg yolks
• 2 small cloves garlic, peeled
• 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
• 1/4 cup freshly squeezed lime juice
• 1 teaspoon paprika
• 2 tablespoons kosher salt
• 1/2 cup olive oil
• 1 cup canola oil
In the bowl of a food processor or blender, combine the egg yolk, garlic, mustard, lime juice, paprika and salt, and puree. With the motor still running, slowly drizzle in both oils, continuing to blend until the mixture is emulsified. There should be no visible oil pools or puddles. If, while processing, the mixture becomes too thick, use a little cold water to thin out then continue with the oil. This can be made a day ahead and refrigerated. Makes about 2 cups.
RECOMMENDED ROSÉS
Note: The following list is a selection of outstanding and very good wines from recently rated releases priced at $25 or less. More rosés can be found in our Wine Ratings Search.
CHÂTEAU D'ESCLANS Côtes de Provence Rosé Whispering Angel 2009 Score: 90 | $20
A rich and fruity rosé, with lots of lush cream and smoke notes behind the dark plum, white chocolate and glazed citrus flavors. Long, spicy finish. Drink now through 2013. 9,280 cases made.
From France. —K.M.
COEUR ESTÉRELLE Côtes de Provence Rosé 2010 Score: 89 | $15
Delicate, with a rich mouthfeel and flavors of melon, dried citrus and white currant. A minerally snap marks the refined finish. Drink now. 5,000 cases made.
From France. —K.M.
DOMAINE MONTROSE Côtes de Thongue Rosé 2010 Score: 88 | $10
This crisp and refined rosé shows spicy overtones to its cherry and berry flavors. Melon and cream notes mark the finish. Drink now. 10,000 cases made.
From France. —K.M.
DOMAINE DE NIZAS Coteaux du Languedoc Rosé 2010 Score: 88 | $17
Spicy up front, with concentrated melon and dried berry flavors that are accented by plenty of savory notes. Features a fresh-cut apple note on the juicy, lively finish. Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre. Drink now. 6,000 cases made.
From France. —K.M.
ST.-AIX Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence Rosé 2010 Score: 88 | $19
A creamy style, with concentrated ripe melon flavors that show dried berry, cherry and spice notes. The plush finish is filled with mango. Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah and Counoise. Drink now. 12,000 cases made.
From France. —K.M.
BIELER PÈRE & FILS Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence Rosé Sabine 2010 Score: 87 | $12
Shows some power, with dried berry and melon flavors joining savory herb and sea salt notes. The tight finish offers hints of lime. Syrah, Grenache and Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now. 9,000 cases imported.
From France. —K.M.
LEONE DE CASTRIS Salento Rosato Five Roses 2010 Score: 87 | $14
Bright, floral and quite tasty, this offers freshly cut strawberry and crushed cherry notes, which carry hints of wildflowers through the chalky finish. Negroamaro and Malvasia Nera. Drink now. 14,000 cases made.
From Italy. —N.W.
MAS CARLOT Costières de Nîmes Rosé Tradition 2010 Score: 87 | $12
A juicy, mouthfilling style, with bright red cherry and strawberry notes backed by a brisk edge of watermelon rind on the finish. Very tasty. Drink now. 11,000 cases made.
From France. —J.M.
VIGNERONS DE CARACTÈRE Côtes du Rhône Rosé A l'Ombre des Fontaines 2010 Score: 87 | $15
A very pure, unadorned style, with mineral and warm stone notes up front, followed by hints of peach, cherry and jasmine. The finish is long and stylish. Drink now. 15,000 cases made.
From France. —J.M.
CAVES ALIANÇA Tinta Roriz Beiras Rosé Vista TR 2010 Score: 86 | $8
A juicy rosé from Portugal, with good definition to the melon, cherry and wild plum flavors. Features notes of peach and spice on the finish. Drink now. 27,500 cases made.
From Portugal. —K.M.
DOMAINE DE GOURNIER Vin de Pays des Cévennes Rosé 2010 Score: 86 | $10
Fruity and dry, with cherry, berry and mineral flavors. Concentrated savory herbal notes linger on the finish. Drink now. 25,000 cases made.
From France. —K.M.
HECHT & BANNIER Languedoc Rosé 2010 Score: 86 | $12
Juicy strawberry and melon flavors are crisp and pure-tasting in this rosé. Hints of white pepper mark the finish. Syrah, Grenache and Cinsault. Drink now. 15,000 cases made.
From France. —K.M.
CHÂTEAU MONTAUD Côtes de Provence Rosé 2010 Score: 86 | $12
Rich-tasting and well-crafted, with flavors of honeysuckle, red cherry and spice. Creamy and lush on the finish. Drink now. 20,000 cases made.
From France. —K.M.
MULDERBOSCH Cabernet Sauvignon Coastal Region Rosé 2010 Score: 85 | $12
Tasty cherry, herb and tobacco notes are backed by a nicely zippy finish. Drink now. 25,000 cases imported.
From South Africa. —J.M.
Please everyone do not deep fry in a "small saucepan".
Make sure the oil only comes up half way or less in the pot. When you put cold foods in hot oil it bubbles up furiously. If it over flows the pot it can cause serious burns and/or fires.