Kosher Wines and Sweet-and-Sour Brisket for Passover

A butcher shares her Seder recipe, and we share 14 recently rated kosher wines from Israel

Laurie Woolever
Posted: April 6, 2011

To start the weeklong Jewish holiday of Passover, families gather for a special meal, the Seder, at which the food is often as traditional and familiar as the prayers, songs and symbolic elements on the Seder plate that commemorate the ancient Hebrews' exodus from Egypt.

"Beef brisket was the centerpiece of almost every Passover in my family," said Jessica Applestone, co-owner, with her husband, Joshua, of Fleisher's Grass-Fed and Organic Meats in Kingston, N.Y., which supplies meat to some of the top restaurants in New York City and the Hudson Valley. Although the shop is not kosher, Joshua is a third-generation butcher whose great-grandfather, Wolf Fleisher, owned a beloved kosher butcher shop in Brooklyn with his sons Jack and Joseph. This heritage inspired Joshua, a one-time vegan, and Jessica, a former vegetarian, to become purveyors who offer thoughtfully raised, hormone- and antibiotic-free meat. To encourage others to be environmentally conscious in selecting meat, the two have written a book with co-author Alexandra Zissu, The Butcher's Guide to Well-Raised Meat: How to Buy, Cut, and Cook Great Beef, Lamb, Pork, Poultry, and More, which will be published in June 2011.

"Brisket is always either braised or smoked, and once you understand that, you can go in whatever direction you want, depending on the flavor profile you're looking for," said Applestone, who likes to adhere to a ratio of 2 parts acid (tomatoes, vinegar, wine, beer or cider) to 3 parts stock or water when composing a braising liquid for brisket. "A nice Jewish brisket tends to be sweet and sour." To that end, she has shared the following recipe, suitable for a Passover Seder. Serve with matzo, a bitter greens salad, some parve coconut cookies and one or more of the recently rated kosher wines below.

Sweet-and-Sour Brisket with Sweet Potatoes and Plantains

• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 5-pound beef brisket
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 6 to 8 red onions, peeled and thinly sliced (about 4 to 5 cups)
• 1/2 cup white wine vinegar
• 2 cups red wine
• 4 cups beef broth or chicken or veal stock
• 1 1/2 cups apple cider
• 2 pounds sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into quarters
• 5 semi-ripe plantains, peeled and cut into thirds
• 1/3 cup finely chopped parsley (optional)

1. Preheat the oven to 300° F. In a Dutch oven or other large, oven-proof pot, heat the oil over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Season the meat on both sides with salt. Sear the meat on both sides in the hot oil until browned, about 5 minutes per side. Remove the meat to a platter and season on both sides with black pepper.

2. Add the onions to the hot pot and stir well with a wooden spoon to evenly coat the onions with oil and to dislodge any browned bits on the bottom of the pan. Season the onions well with salt and pepper, and continue to cook over medium heat until they are soft, fragrant and lightly browned, about 7 to 10 minutes.

3. Increase the heat to high and stir in the vinegar. Cook over high heat, stirring occasionally, until the liquid has evaporated and the sharp vinegar smell has subsided, about 5 to 7 minutes. When the onions are sizzling hard, stir in the wine and cook until the liquid has reduced by half. Stir in the broth or stock and the cider and bring to a boil. Add the sweet potatoes and plantains and return to a boil.

4. Return the brisket to the pot. Note: If your pot isn't large enough to hold all of the meat, vegetables and liquid, transfer some of the liquid, onions, sweet potatoes and plantains to a separate, heavy-bottomed pot, bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer and cook on the stovetop for about 90 minutes, until the plantains and potatoes are extremely tender.

5. Cover the pot with an oven-proof lid or aluminum foil and transfer to the oven. Cook until the meat is very tender, about 4 hours. Remove from the oven and let the meat cool to room temperature in the liquid, then separate the liquid from the meat and vegetables and chill the liquid so that the fat rises to the top. Skim the fat, cover the meat and vegetables with the liquid and refrigerate 8 hours or overnight.

6. To serve, heat the meat, vegetables and liquid together in a 350° F oven until the liquid is bubbling. Serve the meat in thin slices with the vegetables alongside, braising liquid drizzled over and chopped parsley on top as a garnish. Serves 8 to 10.

14 RECOMMENDED KOSHER WINES FROM ISRAEL

The following are highlights from new-release kosher wines that we have reviewed this year, chosen for their quality and/or price. WineSpectator.com members can view additional kosher wines in our Wine Ratings Search.

A ripe, extracted style, with aromas and flavors of dark plum, spiced cherry, blackberry and pepper. Anise and dark chocolate fill the finish, which features plenty of grip. Kosher. Drink now through 2016. 50 cases imported. —K.M.

A rich white, exhibiting ripe peach flavors that are accented by smoky notes. The finish features ripe melon notes, with a firm minerality. Kosher. Drink now through 2015. 900 cases made. —K.M.

Thick, dense blackberry and dark plum flavors fill this full-bodied red. Well-focused spice and brick notes feature touches of richness on the ripe finish. Kosher. Drink now through 2014. 150 cases imported. —K.M.

A medium-bodied red, with good structure to the plum, dark cherry and mincemeat flavors. The suave, spicy finish features minerally notes. Kosher. Drink now. 400 cases imported. —K.M.

Dark plum, cherry and kirsch flavors are ripe and brooding, with herb and spice midpalate and an espresso-filled finish. Kosher. Drink now. 4,000 cases imported. —K.M.

Dark plum and red currant make this a lively quaff. Tannic and spicy on the finish, with notes of cedar and black olive. Syrah and Mourvèdre. Kosher. Drink now through 2014. 100 cases imported. —K.M.

This has zesty red currant and plum pudding flavors, with plenty of pepper and spice. Creamy finish. Kosher. Drink now. 150 cases imported. —K.M.

Red plum and pepper flavors fill this well-spiced red, with black olive and sage lingering on the snappy finish. Kosher. Drink now. 150 cases imported. —K.M.

Firm, focused and minerally, this red shows flavors of red currant and plum. Not typical for the variety, but tasty, with a cedary finish. Kosher. Drink now. 1,000 cases imported. —K.M.

Medium-bodied, with silky overtones to the dried cherry and berry flavors. The supple finish features notes of allspice. Kosher. Drink now. 400 cases imported. —K.M.

A supple red, offering a spicy allure to its cherry and raspberry tart flavors, with hints of paprika on the finish. Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Kosher. Drink now. 100 cases imported. —K.M.

This firm red shows plenty of dried berry flavors that feature notes of savory herb and hints of smoke, with a plum pudding finish. Kosher. Drink now. 1,000 cases imported. —K.M.

Medium-bodied, with red berry and plum flavors that are accented by mineral and spice. Crisp finish. Syrah and Mourvèdre. Kosher. Drink now. 500 cases imported. —K.M.

Ripe apple, citrus and tropical fruit flavors feature notes of beeswax, with a spicy finish. Kosher. Drink now. 750 cases imported. —K.M.