Le Cinq
In a Parisian palace, a Michelin three-star restores a great wine list
The words "three-star dining" conjure up images of luxury, but few gastronomic temples can match the sheer opulence of the ornate Le Cinq -- even in France, where haute cuisine is a fine art.
Tradition, beauty and history come together at this landmark, located in the Four Seasons Hotel George V, just off the Champs-Élysées in Paris. Chef Philippe Legendre's conservative French cuisine is enlivened by a modern wine cellar, which is managed by a dynamic team of nine sommeliers led by the enthusiastic Enrico Bernardo, a 26-year-old native of Milan, Italy.
The George V, which opened in 1928, has an illustrious history. Over the years, however, the hotel's "modern French style," so called for its white stone Art Deco facade and minimal architectural artifices, began to lose its luster. In 1997 new owner Prince Alwaleed Bin Talal Abdulaziz Al Saud of Saudi Arabia signed a long-term management agreement with Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts and closed George V for a $125-million renovation. It reopened in December 1999.
As a result of these efforts, dining at Le Cinq is a regal experience. Murano chandeliers and Louis XIV tapestries greet you on your way from the splendid hotel foyer. Huge flower arrangements bring intimacy to the large dining room, while high ceilings and columns reinforce the sense of space. Palm trees, oil paintings, spaciously placed tables, and floor-to-ceiling glass doors opening to a garden and patio complete the picture.
The wine cellar was bolstered from a paltry stock of 500 bottles in 1999 to 48,000 bottles (representing 1,820 wines) at last count, according to restaurant manager Eric Beaumard. As a result of this rapid expansion, many of the wines are very young. Most of the Bordeaux are from 1989 or a younger vintage, but there is more depth for some châteaus; Château Cheval-Blanc 1982 ($1,398) or Château Latour 1961 ($4,544) being examples.
Overall, the wine list is well-balanced and well-priced. The main emphasis is on red Bordeaux (35 percent of sales), but there is a good selection of top producers from all key French regions. A strong Italian section features verticals of Antinori Solaia and Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia into the 1980s. Spain, Germany, Austria, Australia and the United States get their due.
Wine service is exceptional. A request for a wine will be answered quickly and the wine will be tasted and served professionally. A 1996 Cepparello Isole e Olena ($65) was decanted using a candle and served at perfect temperature -- the impressively organized cellar 42 feet below the restaurant records 61°F. The sommeliers show the same attention with the 20 wines offered by the glass; the impressive selection ranges from Georges Vernay Condrieu Les Chaillées 2000 ($21) to Malvazia Barbeito 1900 ($76), a dessert wine from Madeira.
Despite the setting and the strength of the wine program, the restaurant is not yet perfect. The service is attentive, but occasionally flawed. Legendre, now 43, worked at three-star Taillevent from 1991 to 1999, and recognition has come quickly at Le Cinq, with Michelin awarding it three stars in as many years, the last one coming this spring. Legendre now oversees a huge kitchen that serves the hotel as well as Le Cinq. Improvising or reaching perfection thus becomes a challenge, and my meal at Le Cinq suggested a chef that has settled on very classic, sometimes dull, French cooking.
There is room for improvement at Le Cinq, but the professionals working in this splendid landmark aren't resting on their laurels. It is a new oasis for those who love haute cuisine and classical wine. -- Per-Henrik Mansson
LE CINQ FOUR SEASONS HOTEL GEORGE V
31 Ave. George V, Paris, France 75008
Telephone (011) 33-1-49-52-71-54
Wine selections 1,820
Number of bottles 48,000
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