As Australia continues to make compelling wines, a wider range of wine styles and regions is making its way into the United States, which may surprise people who think of Down Under as the source of overblown Shiraz. In Harvey Steiman's latest tasting report in our Aug. 31 issue
, about half of the outstanding wines list alcohol levels at 14 percent or less. Some 30 percent of the bottlings came from cooler regions, such as Yarra Valley and Mornington Peninsula. And a new vanguard of winemakers is aiming for a more elegant expression, using techniques such as whole-cluster fermentation and emphasizing individual vineyard sites.