The cradle of southern Italy's Campania region's modern quality revolution is centered in the upland vineyard district known as Irpinia, which lies about 25 miles east of Naples, and has been led until recently by the Mastroberardino family and its 85-year-old winemaking patriarch, Antonio Mastroberardino. His steadfast belief in the uniqueness of the local soils for growing Irpinia's native grapes—and their ability to make complex, ageworthy wines—has been critical to the area's success. Wine Spectator's Robert Camuto explains.
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