A sign in Christophe Delorme's Syrah vineyard in the Southern Rhône appellation of Lirac reads: "Shelter: Hunting Prohibited. A Free Area for Wild Animals." Being in tune with nature is as important to the ecology-minded winemaker of Domaine de la Mordorée as making great wines is, but it has meant some rough sailing with Christophe's father, Francis, whose passion is hunting, especially for woodcock (known in the local dialect as "mordorée," hence the winery name).
For the full article, check out the new issue of Wine Spectator, on newsstands December 15, 2002.
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