Chui Wai-Kwan, a cherubic, balding man whose resemblance to Hotei, the happy Buddha in Chinese tradition, is uncanny, admits to his contentment. "The restaurant business is a happy business," he tells me one afternoon, over tastes of a '95 Lynch-Bages at a table in his Hong Kong restaurant, Fook Lam Moon.
For the full article, check out the new issue of Wine Spectator, on newsstands October 31, 2002.
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