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Liam Callahan, 35, stands poised over a small plastic barrel filled with flanlike coagulated milk. The tool in his hand looks like an oversized potato masher. He plunges the implement into the curd, cutting a checkerboard of squares into the surface, then replaces the lid and moves on to the next barrel.
For the full article, check out the new issue of Wine Spectator, on newsstands March 31, 2002.
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