When you walk into Russ & Daughters, the immaculate smoked fish emporium on New York's Lower East Side, you see glistening, smoked whitefish, chubs, sturgeon, mackerel, trout, sable, bluefish and tuna all lined up in neat rows, like soldiers ready to march in a parade.
For the full article, check out the new issue of Wine Spectator, on newsstands November 30, 2001.
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