Some two dozen times a year, winemaker Pascal Delbeck of Bordeaux's Château Bélair leaves his home in the postcard-pretty town of St.-Emilion and drives to Spain. Sometimes he crosses the border at Irun, fighting the trucks for space on the Autopista.
For the full article, check out the new issue of Wine Spectator, on newsstands November 15, 2001.
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