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In most years, Austria's native white wine grape, Grüner Veltliner, plays second fiddle to Riesling. Not in 1998. Ripe grapes and exotic characters played into the hand of Grüner, pumping up its flavor profile to reveal tropical fruit, floral, smoke and even licorice flavors rather than the citrusy, vegetal and herbaceous aromas and flavors of a more typical year.
For the full article, check out the new issue of Wine Spectator, on newsstands April 30, 2000.
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