December 31st, 1999 Changing of the Guard at Williams Selyem The famed Sonoma winery has a new owner and a different feel. All eyes are watching to see whether it's still the king of California Pinot Noir By James Laube It was an idyllic, all-American boutique winery, founded in the basement of a garage in rural Sonoma County by two unlikely sorts who went on to master wine's trickiest grape, Pinot Noir.
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