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June 30, 1999 France Bans an Old Culinary Tradition For centuries, a rite of passage for French gourmets has been the eating of the ortolan. These tiny birds -- captured alive, force-fed, then drowned in Armagnac -- were roasted whole and eaten that way, bones and all, while the diner draped his head with a linen napkin to preserve the precious aromas and, some believe, to hide from God.
For the full article, check out the new issue of Wine Spectator, on newsstands June 30, 1999.
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