October 31, 1998 Duck Tales Hipper than you thought and leaner than you remember, duck has captured the imagination of chefs By Sam Gugino If you're old enough to remember thinking Liebfraumilch was cool, you're old enough to remember when the only duck you could get in a restaurant was one with a cloying orange or cherry sauce, prepared by a chef named Pierre wearing a toque and a pencil-thin mustache.
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