Spend some time with winemaker Christophe Roumier and you sense that his talent lies in his propensity to listen more than he speaks. He doesn't go to work armed with ideology. He pays attention to details. He tastes his grapes in the vineyard, he tastes the juice and skins in the fermentation vat and he tastes the wine aging in his barrels before he decides what to do, or whether to do anything at all. Wine Spectator's Mitch Frank explains.