Oxygen is the enemy of most wines, dulling their flavors and leading to premature aging. But exposure to oxygen during aging is crucial to a distinctive category of dessert wines generally referred to as "oxidative" or rancio. The leading examples are Sherry, from Spain; Madeira, from the island off Portugal; and the vins doux naturels from Maury and Banyuls in the Languedoc region in France. Wine Spectator's James Molesworth explains.
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