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Oxygen is the enemy of most wines, dulling their flavors and leading to premature aging. But exposure to oxygen during aging is crucial to a distinctive category of dessert wines generally referred to as "oxidative" or rancio. The leading examples are Sherry, from Spain; Madeira, from the island off Portugal; and the vins doux naturels from Maury and Banyuls in the Languedoc region in France. Wine Spectator's James Molesworth explains.
For the full article, check out the new issue of Wine Spectator, on newsstands August 19, 2014.
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