Cornbread pain perdu is a quintessential Tony Maws dish, reflecting his affinity for riding the razor's edge between refinement and hominess. These characteristics exist side-by-side comfortably at Maws' Craigie on Main, which he opened in 2002, and at his new Kirkland Tap and Trotter. Pain perdu means lost, or stale, bread. The bread is revived by soaking it in eggs and milk, then fried in butter. The version, shared with Wine Spectator here, uses a cakey cornbread for the foundation.
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