In recent decades, L.A. has spearheaded a nationwide trend toward refined cuisine in casual surroundings, so it's no surprise that none of the places Wine Spectator's Harvey Steiman reviewed in this article (all of which opened in 2013) involve white tablecloths or anyone resembling a maître d'. The excitement level is high, in part because the chefs and restaurants involved sport long résumés of success. They deliver dining experiences with confidence.
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