There are all kinds of winemakers in the world, and then there's Brian Loring. He's a man who knows what he likes, and he likes expensive Champagne even when hamburgers are the menu. The preferential attitude extends to the wines he makes, which are extracted, fruit-forward and not lacking in alcohol, exactly how Loring likes them. And although Loring's are widely regarded as among California's top Pinot Noirs, the vintner refuses to even taste grapes before they ferment. He shudders at the thought. Wine Spectator's Tim Fish explains.