The first thing you notice about former Argyle and current Roco winemaker Rollin Soles is his mustache. The way it unfurls on either side of his upper lip makes it look like something from an old Western movie. But it suits him. Consider it a signal: A big personality is coming your way. Wine Spectator's Tim Fish explains.
For the full article, check out the new issue of Wine Spectator, on newsstands January 28, 2014.
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