Sherry is one of the wine world's most distinctive wines. It is also one of the most idiosyncratic. The best examples are bracing, taut wines that often display lively bitter and salty elements evocative of the Spanish coast, where Sherry is produced. By volume, Sherry consumption in the United States trended down over the past decade, as did its reputation. But almost imperceptibly, imports of higher quality bottlings increased. Now, thanks in part to the efforts of producers and enthusiastic sommeliers to introduce Sherry to a younger generation of consumers, the category is winning newfound recognition. Wine Spectator's James Molesworth explains.