The first thing you think is: "Is this really gin?" That's what it says on the label. But a bouquet of rose laced with accents of peach and raspberry graces your nose and palate, lacking much of the crisp, piney taste of juniper you've come to associate with the spirit. You're drinking Nolet's Silver dry gin, made by the Holland-based distiller that produces Ketel One vodka. But it's no malty Dutch gin. Wine Spectator's Jack Bettridge explains.