Spain has long been the sleeping giant of the oil industry. Much of its production, however, has been low-quality oil, and very little of that is exported directly to the United States. But much Spanish oil is exported to Italy. And because European and Italian law makes it legal to label oil as "packed in Italy" even if none of the contents were actually produced in Italy, much of that Spanish oil winds up being re-exported to the United States and elsewhere, flying Italian colors. So while American consumers have likely had Spanish oil, they probably thought it was Italian. But now Spain is emerging from Italy's shadow, as a handful of dedicated Spanish producers shift their focus from quantity to quality. Today, the best Spanish oils are packed and shipped under the Spanish flag. Tom Mueller reports for Wine Spectator.