Winemaker Louis Barruol loves a challenge. Fast-forward to 2013 and he can be proud of what he has accomplished so far: He has transformed St.-Cosme from an anonymous bulk wine source to the top winery in Gigondas, and arguably into one of the best estates in the Southern Rhône. Building on his father's work, he has allowed his vineyards to sing. In the cellars, he has not been afraid to innovate, incorporating ideas from other regions. And at age 44, he has plenty of time to build on his projects outside of Gigondas, with wines from the Northern Rhône, neighboring districts in the Southern Rhône and even New York's Finger Lakes region. Wine Spectator's Mitch Frank explains.