On an August evening, 300 winegrowers packed into a town hall 30 minutes' drive east of downtown Bordeaux, hoping to find a way to stave off economic ruin. Outside was devastation: Three days earlier, almost 30,000 acres of vines in the Entre-Deux-Mers, St.-Emilion and Castillon wine regions had been damaged in a hailstorm that lasted minutes.
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