For the committed wine lover, the summer months offer a release from what Henry James memorably called "the wear and tear of discrimination." Being a wine lover can exact a certain toll, all that weighing and sifting and evaluating. It's part of the pleasure and the adventure of fine wine. The ease of summer brings a welcome relief. Yet this relief doesn't mean that summer wine-drinking has to be dull, stupid or even simplistic. Wine Spectator's Matt Kramer explains.