Like Butter for Chocolate

Owen Dugan
Issue: July 31, 2013

Chocolate is made from the meat (or nibs) of cacao beans. Great chocolate can be made only from top-quality cacao beans, and top chocolate makers put great effort into sourcing their raw material. Genetics, origin, farming, processing-every detail is examined and finessed to produce a raw material with great character and complexity. But chocolate made from nibs alone has a drawback: It often lacks the voluptuous mouthfeel and the meltability that consumers want. That has led to a little-known practice of many chocolate makers, even the best: They supplement the top beans with bleached and deodorized butter that has nothing to do with the cacao that stars in the chocolate. Wine Spectator's Owen Dugan explains.

For the full article, check out the new issue of Wine Spectator, on newsstands July 2, 2013.

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