An Agrarian Model

Sam Gugino
Issue: June 30, 2013

Not many cheesemakers get to design their own facility, have someone else pay for it, then make the kind of cheese they want with virtually no interference. Kristian Holbrook, cheesemaker at The Farm at Doe Run in Pennsylvania's Chester County, is one of the fortunate few. However, it wasn't luck that produced cheeses that have graced the tables of such top restaurants as Per Se in New York and Vetri in Philadelphia. Wine Spectator's Sam Gugino explains.

For the full article, check out the new issue of Wine Spectator, on newsstands June 4, 2013.

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