Americans have a special love affair with Brunello di Montalcino, and it's not hard to understand why. These reds are some of the best Italy produces. Spanning a range of styles, from ultratraditional to decisively modern, the top-tier Brunellos showcase the complex soils and varying mesoclimates of the Tuscan region. The current releases encompass the Brunello bottlings from 2008 and the riserva versions from 2007. The cool 2008 growing season experienced strong diurnal temperature swings from the end of August onward and a later-than-usual harvest. Wine Spectator's Bruce Sanderson explains.