In Burgundy, it 's said that one generation can destroy the good work of many. But at Domaine de Montille, it took two generations to rescue the forlorn estate and restore one of the region's great names. What's more surprising is how different those two generations are. The iconoclastic, crusty Hubert de Montille and his enterprising and creative children have often pulled in opposite directions. Yet their love for great wines and the vines they spring from has united them in a common purpose. Wine Spectator's Peter Hellman explains.