What is Southern food? Hugh Acheson is one of a number of chefs encouraging diners to broaden their definition. So how does chef Hugh Acheson intend to move Southern food forward? By looking backward. This chicken recipe shared with Wine Spectator was inspired by Charleston Receipts, a 1950 cookbook admired for preserving generations of Charleston-area recipes and the strong influence on this cuisine of Gullahs, descendants of slaves living in the coastal area called the Lowcountry.