More and more examples of once-overlooked foods are coming to market, aiming to capture the attention of an increasingly fickle and selective public. One such favorite is pressed caviar (payusnaya in Russian). Caviar's quality is determined by origin, species, and the size and condition of the eggs (called "grains" in the industry). But what to do with batches that don't make the grade? Wine Spectator's Owen Dugan explains.