Randall Grahm insists he has grown up, earnest in his desire to shed his whimsical image and strike a more serious stance. That Grahm's new wines are among the best he's made in years adds credence to his plan to reboot his livelihood. But if you've been following Grahm's mercurial career, it's easy to wonder whether the new posture is real or merely a front. Wine Spectator's James Laube weighs in on the debate.
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