In little more than a decade, Bordeaux has undergone France's most dramatic makeover. The city's chic pedestrian-only streets are bustling, while boutique hotels, restaurants and wine bars cater to a broad range of tastes. An influx of cooking talent has spilled over into the wine country, from Margaux to St.-Emilion. Simply put, Bordeaux—both the city and wine region—is reclaiming its place as a world wine capital that lives up to its storied reputation. The result is a sweet spot for wine travel that mixes modernity with tradition. Wine Spectator's Robert Camuto has the scoop.