Australian wine sales are in the doldrums, which means you won't have to compete against hordes of trend-followers to find the good bottles. Here are five that aren't called Shiraz. They're not even big reds. But they might surprise you with how good they are, and their prices are far from daunting. For these wines, quality has been consistent, so don't sweat the vintage. Wine Spectator's Harvey Steiman explains.