Madrona Manor, perhaps the premier inn in Sonoma, has retained chef Jesse Mallgren for 13 years, following stints at Syzygy in Aspen, Colo. and Stars in San Francisco. The eggs in this dish shared with Wine Spectator, come from chickens at the biodynamic Puma Springs Vineyards. Though Mallgren doctors the dish by season, here it sits atop an autumn squash and bacon hash. It is a deceptively hearty dish, designed for comfort.
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