The troubles start to creep into the cellar, then, gradually, the wines. It's impossible to pinpoint the moment the intrusion begins, because like a ghost, the spoilage yeast brettanomyces can slip into a winery undetected, leaving winemakers struggling to battle its effects. Brett is perhaps winemaking's worst enemy, the sneakiest of demons, a stealthy operator whose presence is often difficult to recognize before it's too late. Wine Spectator's James Laube reports.
For the full article, check out the new issue of Wine Spectator, on newsstands November 6, 2012.
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