The troubles start to creep into the cellar, then, gradually, the wines. It's impossible to pinpoint the moment the intrusion begins, because like a ghost, the spoilage yeast brettanomyces can slip into a winery undetected, leaving winemakers struggling to battle its effects. Brett is perhaps winemaking's worst enemy, the sneakiest of demons, a stealthy operator whose presence is often difficult to recognize before it's too late. Wine Spectator's James Laube reports.
Do you have a Wine Spectator magazine subscription? Save 50% on your Online Membership right now!