If you're driving fast down Canyon Road in northern Sonoma County, there's a small Zinfandel vineyard that's easy to miss. It's only half an acre in size, and there isn't anything ostentatious about its 400 or so big, bushy vines, but for generations it has produced good wine at a reasonable price. Owned by the Pedroncelli Winery, the vineyard symbolizes everything the Pedroncelli family stands for. It is among the last of the holdouts: an old Italian family that grows its own grapes and, without a lot of fuss, makes wine that people can afford to drink every day. Wine Spectator's Tim Fish explains.