People often ask if Wine Spectator's James Laube has a favorite varietal, and for most of his life in wine the answer has been the same. Pinot Noir. It hasn't, until lately, been the wine he has drunk the most often, and it's hardly the only wine that excites him. Many do. But Pinot Noir has always held the greatest allure and been the most intriguing, tempting, seductive and maddening of wines.