Does this sound familiar? A young couple decides to leave conventional jobs in the city and move to the country to become (fill in the blank here: farmers, ranchers, grapegrowers, beekeepers). Their family and friends say they are crazy, but the couple does it anyway. After years of struggle, they make award-winning (cheese, beef, wine, honey). This scenario fits Rick and Helen Feete, owners of Meadow Creek Dairy in Galax, Va., to a T. Leaving the Washington, D.C., metro area behind for the Appalachian mountains of southwestern Virginia, they have fashioned an enviable dairy farm, which produces raw cow's milk cheeses. Wine Spectator's Sam Gugino explains.