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The menu at Michael Shrader's Chicago restaurant Urban Union does not claim any specific nationality, but the half Sicilian and half Irish Shrader knows where his love of cooking comes from—his Sicilian great-grandparents. The porchetta comes from his first trip to Italy, where he was struck by how this ubiquitous dish seemed different everywhere he went. Wine Spectator's Owen Dugan explains.
For the full article, check out the new issue of Wine Spectator, on newsstands October 2, 2012.
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