For the most part this Wine Spectator dish is like one of those pies in the cakestand at a diner-if it had been made by Paul Bocuse. One game-changer is the white chocolate crumble. Goldsmith never cared for white chocolate, "but Valrhona's was best, because of all the cocoa butter". It occurred to her that the same process used for making dulce de leche from scratch might work on the white chocolate. "It's the same trick; you convert the dairy, caramelize it."