What should Rioja taste like? There is a vigorous debate going on, both in the region's bodegas and in the international press, pitting the supple, elegant "traditional" style that flourished after World War II against the richer, more structured vinos de alta expresión that emerged in the 1990s. Wine Spectator's Thomas Matthews explains.
For the full article, check out the new issue of Wine Spectator, on newsstands September 20, 2011.
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