Sonoma County's terrain, and how it defines Pinot Noir, is not only setting the pace for California but also resetting the global table for where and how Pinot can reach its zenith. That it all began for California in a small Russian River vineyard and nearby garage testifies to the enduring legacy of Williams and Selyem, with their intuitive winemaking, and the Rochioli family, the farmers who grew the grapes. Wine Spectator's James Laube explains.
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