Does the perfect city exist? Perhaps not, but there is one European town on the Atlantic Ocean whose Old World feel, idyllic charms, gorgeous beaches and vibrant food-and-wine scene might steal your heart away. San Sebastián is situated on the Bay of Biscay, along Spain's northern coast, a short drive from the French border. Yet by history and tradition the city belongs to neither nation. It is Basque, and owes its identity and culture-perhaps, above all, its culinary culture-to this unique heritage. Wine Spectator's Per-Henrik Mansson explains.