When Mark Gaier and Clark Frasier moved to coastal Maine to open a restaurant in 1988, they were shocked. As chefs at the happening and forward-thinking Stars in San Francisco, they had access to perfect examples of every ingredient imaginable. With a less produce-friendly environment and fewer food-obsessed locals, Maine at that time was pretty desolate for a restaurant owner. The answer then, as now, was to fix the problem themselves. One example of the fix was a recipe like this poached salmon with Pinot Noir. Wine Spectator's Owen Dugan explains.